So after an extremely muddy and slippery ride we find
ourselves in Addis, obstensively to celebrate my birthday but more importantly
for some relatively gourmet experiences, the power of excessive lentils having
finally taken us to make the journey, which is longer than that from London to
New York. Not as gourmet as you might
think as we have endured a Chinese meal of such oiliness that my fat free diet
of the last few months has now been blown and it was served in a wind tunnel
that actually blew the mosquitoes at you.
Karen is also paying the price of some other meal with intestinal hurry
which adds another layer of discomfort to her intermittent febrile
illness. Discussions in the car and over
coffee reveal that the Gimbie rumour mill has credited us with all sorts of
sexual misdemeanours and proclivities that might be rather fun if they were
true but are laughable as they are not.
The source of the gossip is the local ‘bad adventist’ drinking club at
the ‘Green Bar’ a small all male group but transmitted by farangi gone native
with much to be gossiped about. Our
consciences are entirely clear but there is much rustling of bed covers and
much else in our little microcosm. Our
charity is melting down with the imminent departure of the project leader to
pastures new (a BBC charity probably as loosely organised as this one) a
farangi shoe in temporary replacement and a deeply dysfunctional local work
force. The hospital too is in turmoil as
bankruptcy threatens, the work force has not had a pay increase and is in
mutinous mood and inevititably the patients (such as can afford to come) are
even more ignored than before. The
employment situation however is such as there are no other jobs, they have all
been there for years and are far too frightened of moving as that would require
effort, so they will just go on bitching and pilfering as before. Even, sadly the new medical director has had
enough and will depart in December, though his wife given half a chance would
be gone yesterday, and the Adventist hierarchy is in turmoil, such that the
church elders want to sack everyone and the seemingly terminally arrogant head
of Adventist Health International is due to fly in on the equivalent of a
‘needs assessment’ visit. I say this merely on hearsay but this is on good
authority, I have never met him and probably not being of the faith never will. There is of course lots of needs assessment
but little in the way of needs met. As
news of our impending departure filters through so do the visits of vultures to
our doors to see what we might leave behind for them and the requests for
clothes, sponsorship and money all become more urgent. I have it mind to say we are going a week
later than we really are and then ‘steal softly into the night’.
A visiting and very enthusiastic medical student has joined
us, and virtually moved in. this may be
to escape from a bunch of first year, innocent and barely coping Adventist
girls from America and we have set her to work trying to find out what happened
to various women who have delivered in the health centres. What is revealing about this is that all
though the notes have covers with numbers written on them (seemingly random as
men seem to have babies) the papers inside are bare of writing, the only note
that I have seen is in my hand! What is
so sad is that the care offered in the health centres is so poor and so rudely
and arrogantly delivered that the women vote with their feet.
Faranjis (us) with portable scanners and a smile get 60 odd
women coming and we are able to give some sort of advice about where to have
babies etc. As an example of how
sad it can be, I saw some wretch who had
attended 4 times, thought she was term and had a 22 week sized dead baby which
had clearly been that way for some time and gone undiagnosed, despite gifts of
sonicaids and all the rest.
Somebody also turned up with a fistula of about 4 years
duration but they at least get free treatment and free transport. The fistula hospital which I am about to
visit is also in turmoil however having also been the subject of something of a
putsch, though more of this later.
The two are probably not related but my departure coincides
with a flurry of cancer patients and hopefully the skills passed on to the
Ethiopians I have been training will bear fruit but I think that they will be
scared of doing them without their hands being held. However both I think will be on the move
having learned what they can and also with the prospect of me going do not
fancy being on duty one in one. This may
be a good thing though as I am encouraging them to build cancer teams and that
might make a difference. Screening too
may in some nascent way become a possibility as someone wants to do pap
smears. So if there are any old
Aylesbury spatulas and fixative about do save them. What of the cancer? The operations are possible even with big
tumours, and can be achieved with relatively little morbidity, mostly wound
infections, which I do not entirely understand as the caesars are relatively
unscathed and so far reasonable clinical clearance. I have found it difficult to persuade the
pathologist to look at the vaginal edge and I am not sure that the formalin is
a s strong as it could be given the slightly putrid smell that accompanied us
to Addis with the last four specimens.
This mixed uncomfortably with the smell of vomit which always seems to
occur when charity dictates that we fill the car with indigent freeloading
Ethiopians piling in the back for travel to Addis or elsewhere. We have tried to contain this with aircraft
sick bags but they will not use them, merely steal them.
On a brighter note, having got the fetal monitor to work
after a fashion, there is a lot of noise, I have achieved vaginal deliveries
with inert primips pouring meconium, with the judicious use of oxytocin and a
lot of patience. More gloomily however
the Adventists are getting more toxic about abortion, despite desperate
pregnant unmarried teenagers who may well do themselves damage by going off to
the back streets or abandoning their probably hypoxic and brain damaged babies,
once they have delivered themselves at home.
Few misoprostol tablets and all would be safe, but then we move in
strangely contradictory circles.